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Marlin bugfix-2.0.x and REARM - MAX6675 Problem

March 16, 2020, 2:26 pm
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Hello all ... I´m new in this forum.
I have problems to get MAX6675 to work on the following configuration:
latest Marlin bugfix-2.0.x FW on REARM board with Ramps 1.6 addon ... REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER is connected and enabled, SDSUPPORT is diabled.
After turning on the power, the bootscreen shows up, then it shows a broken "status" screen and it is beeping, followed by a constant tone and a message on the LCD "temp. on E1 to high ... Printer stopped".
Only one Hot-End is enabled.
I searched the whole code, but couldn't find the place where the SPI pins for the MAX6675 are defined. In my opinion I have tested all SPI pins that can be found in the REARM pinout. Error also happens when MAX6675 is not connected at all.
I also tried to enable SDSUPPORT but the problem remains. With LCD and SDSUPPORTdisabled no connection to the board is possible.

I hope someone can give me a hint :-)

BR Andy
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Re: Marlin bugfix-2.0.x and REARM - MAX6675 Problem

March 16, 2020, 3:56 pm
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Same problem with Marlin 2.0.5 with Max6675 connected to P0_15 and P0_17 for SCK and SO :-(
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Marlin 2.x on ReARM - filament width sensor question

March 16, 2020, 4:13 pm
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Hello all,
i tried to set up the filament width sensor function to test it before using it with the following setup:
REARM board with Ramps 1.6 addon ... REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER ... No SDSupport
I have replaced the sensor by a poti. I get a filament width shown on the display but ... I need to have an input voltage of round about 0.5V that the display shows 1.75 mm ... i have used a 25 turn poti and it is more or less impossible to set an exact value because it is so sensitive ... i´m talking about ~0.2V from 2,5mm to 0,5mm.

I hope someone can help me.

BR Andy
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Trouble setting up Marilin4Due: MINTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID

March 17, 2020, 7:58 am
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So I'm building a printer by myself and I'm stuck in setting it up.

I use:
- Arduino Due, RADDS, RAPS128, Hexagon Hotend with 100k EPCOS thermistor ( I don't have other thermistors)
- Arduino IDE, Marlin4Due, Pronterface, MacOS 10.13.6


I upload the frimware to arduino from Arduino IDE. I have selected correct ports etc in Arduino IDE and in Pronterface. When i click "connect" in Proterface i get the following message. I don't see anything else and i can't adjust or test anything(pic attached) :

Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo:Marlin 1.0.3 dev
echo: Last Updated: 2015-06-00 12:00 | Author: (none, default config)
Compiled: Mar 13 2020
echo: Free Memory: 90348 PlannerBufferBytes: 1344
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
echo: Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X384.00 Y533.00 Z960.00 E1980.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z2.00 E20.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X3000 Y3000 Z100 E10000
echo:Accelerations: P=printing, R=retract and T=travel
echo: M204 P3000.00 R3000.00 T3000.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Z0.30 E2.00
echo:Home offset (mm):
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo: PID settings:
echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 C1.00
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
First start for temperature finished.
Error: MINTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0
[ERROR] Error: MINTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0

Error: Printer halted. kill() called!
[ERROR] Error: Printer halted. kill() called!



I have tested the thermistor from the connectors that connect to RADDS and it gives me 116kOhm.
I have baudrate on 25000 on both ends.
Can anyone help me to resolve the problem or understand it? What might cause it if the thermistor is allright?

In Marlin4Due i have:
- no edits in the software. Only basic firmware configuration. These are the temperature settings. You can not change TEMP_SENSOR_0 to 0. I have tried having TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 and TEMP_SENSOR_1 to 1. I have also tried "#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 1" "#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 25" etc:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0

// This makes temp sensor 1 a redundant sensor for sensor 0. If the temperatures difference between these sensors is to high the print will be aborted.
//#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT
#define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 10

// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_3_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5
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Re: Trouble setting up Marilin4Due: MINTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID

March 17, 2020, 10:18 am
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"Marlin 1.0.3 dev" This is a dinosaur

Real marlin has supported due for ages.

Please consider Marlin 2.

But the most obvious thing is you have the thirmistor plugged into the wrong place. (or pins files is pointing to wrong place and not looking at the thermistor)
Or it could be a dead analog pin..
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Re: Integrating a Custom 32 Bit Board in Marlin 2.0

March 17, 2020, 11:31 am
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@JMS728
I had a similar Problem, in the Pins-File you have to define Pins for X-/Y-/Z-axis and E0 to Ex for the rest of the Stepper-Drivers. If you then enable "X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS" in configuration_adv.h X2 will be assigned to E1 or E2 depending if you have 1 or 2 Extruders. So you have to have unused E-Drivers.
I hope this will help you.
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Re: Update Marlin 1.1.8 to 2.x LCD&SD problem

March 17, 2020, 1:53 pm
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Dear,

first of all, thanks a lot for your suggestion.
The change works fine to remove the artifacts, and the LCD shows the infos correctly.

The problem of SD card reading remains, I have tried to change some parameters without any
improvent:
I have checked the #define SDSUPPORT is correctly active
I change the definition to #define SD_DETECT_STATE HIGH
I also change to line to #define SDCARD_CONNECTION LCD
noany combination seems working.

I insert the SD, everytime the LCD shows media insert, but when I enter into the menu to
find the file, the last line said media not present. I have tried also the change of SD card.

Tring ring again sometimes the media is shown correctly, seems randomly.When I remove it
and reinsert it doesn't appear correctly.
I have no idea how to find out a solution.

Jek
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Re: MKS SGen L V1.0

March 18, 2020, 3:47 am
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Could you please go into detail how you managed to get MKS SGEN L + MKS TMC2209 v1 to work with sensorless homing?
I tried setting everything correctly in Marlin and connected the "middle" pin (the one facing toward the mid of the driver) to the endstop pin, but M119 showed X and Y to be always triggered.

Could you perhaps show a picture of your setup and share your config? I would really appreciate that.

Thanks in advance and best regards
LaKi
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Re: MKS SGen L V1.0

March 18, 2020, 4:53 am
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If you connected diag0 to the endstop pin and you still show triggered you might need to invert the endstop logic.

I am at work and don't have my config files but I believe that is all that is needed with the mks bundle.

You have to ensure also the jumpers UNDER the drivers are all removed and the uart jumper is connected.
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Re: MKS SGen L V1.0

March 18, 2020, 6:23 am
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I too would appreciate a copy of your configuration.h and any other configuration file so I can see the changes that were altered to get sensor-less to work, thanks.
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Re: MKS SGen L V1.0

March 18, 2020, 7:18 am
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Off the top of my head...

Assuming the jumpers on the board are correct you should need to set tmc2209 as the driver type for your axis.

Set your machine movement/speeds, enable sensorless homing for x and y, set your currents under tmc smart section, ensure diag0 is connected to endstop, invert endstop logic if needed, set your stallguard threshold (this can be changed via lcd).

Those are the ones I remember having to change. Everything else was default in terms of slave addresses etc.
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Re: MKS SGen L V1.0

March 18, 2020, 8:04 am
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Thanks for your fast response :) I removed the jumpers under the drivers, and testing via pronterface says communication to drivers is ok.

[learn.watterott.com]

Can you please confirm that this is the MKS TMC2209 layout? As far as I am aware Watterott changed the PIN-Layout for their TMC2209, but Chinese manufacturerers stuck with the TMC2208 layout.

I will try out inverting the endstop logic later as I got a print running right now with mechanical endstops.
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Re: MKS SGen L V1.0

March 18, 2020, 8:30 am
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For the mks tmc2209 the diag0 port is the "top of the triangle".

The link you posted is correct as far as the diag0 location.

Connect that diag0 to your endstop signal pin when you are ready to try/test sensorless homing.
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Scara 3d printer

March 18, 2020, 9:04 am
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Hello everyone :)



I am building a scara 3d printer and the trouble with the firmware drove me up the wall. I read before that marlin 1.x is broken for scara, when marlin 2.0 was out i tried it and the same problems occurred. now i see marlin 2.0.4 and i would like to know if this version supports scara.
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Re: MKS SGen L V1.0

March 18, 2020, 12:05 pm
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I connected both of them (X and Y) according to your instructions now. Now they are shown correctly as open when I check with M119.
They wont be triggered when hitting the casing though. I tried sensitivity settings between 5 and 250, no change at all...

Do you have an idea what I am missing?

Nevermind. Mixed up X and Y when setting the jumpers. Everything is working now. Thank you very much :)
Sidenote: #define QUICK_HOME proofed to be problematic for me, turning it off helped me a lot
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Re: MKS SGen L V1.0

March 18, 2020, 12:34 pm
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Yes, quick home is more problems than it is worth with sensorless homing.

Glad you are on the right path.

As I noted before, find the threshold where your axis instantly triggers home and then drop the points by 5 or 10 (your choice) to get it to be reliable.
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Marlin 2.0 newbie questions

March 18, 2020, 2:46 pm
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Hi, I am trying again to get marlin set up on an SKR board. I have both an SKR V1.3 and a Mini DIP V1.0.

I had tried in the past but could never get the firmware onto the board. I did get a successful build with Visual Studio Code and platformio. Anyways, I'm trying again now that I have some time and all the boards ready to use.

My first question is which Marlin 2.0.X to use? I was using the 2.0 bugfix but I see there is a 2.0.5 version now. Is Marlin 2.0.5 the one I want to start my build with now?

thanks
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Re: Marlin 2.0 newbie questions

March 18, 2020, 7:31 pm
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A somewhat pointless question if you can't even upload to the board....

I would recommend bugfix as that is where all the fixes go first.
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Re: Marlin 2.0 newbie questions

March 18, 2020, 7:43 pm
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Some hints

The sd card that comes with these board is complete garbage, do not use them.

The two boards SKR V1.3 and the Mini DIP V1.0. are very different processors and the upload procedure is different.

For the SKR V1.3 you put the sd card into the controller and plug the controller into the pc. (if you just have usb cables and now power supply you need to set the power jumper to USB, but make sure you put it back when you plug in powersupply.) The SD card should show on the computer as a drive. The firmware upload script looks for the drive that is the SD card in your controller. It needs a volume label REARM or the file FIRMWARE.CUR to locate where to put the new firmware file.
The SKR V1.3 also actually only loads the firmware on reboot of the controller. So you need to upload then reset or re-power the board. Then give it 30 seconds or so to actually update the firmware.

The Mini Dip is done manually. You have to mount the SD card in a USB/SD card reader on your computer and manually copy the compiled firmware to it. Then put the sd card into the controller and reboot/re-power it.
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Re: Marlin 2.0 newbie questions

March 19, 2020, 12:35 pm
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Quote
Dust
Some hints

The sd card that comes with these board is complete garbage, do not use them.

The two boards SKR V1.3 and the Mini DIP V1.0. are very different processors and the upload procedure is different.

For the SKR V1.3 you put the sd card into the controller and plug the controller into the pc. (if you just have usb cables and now power supply you need to set the power jumper to USB, but make sure you put it back when you plug in powersupply.) The SD card should show on the computer as a drive. The firmware upload script looks for the drive that is the SD card in your controller. It needs a volume label REARM or the file FIRMWARE.CUR to locate where to put the new firmware file.
The SKR V1.3 also actually only loads the firmware on reboot of the controller. So you need to upload then reset or re-power the board. Then give it 30 seconds or so to actually update the firmware.

The Mini Dip is done manually. You have to mount the SD card in a USB/SD card reader on your computer and manually copy the compiled firmware to it. Then put the sd card into the controller and reboot/re-power it.

Thank you, this is very useful. This is why i had trouble getting it on the board. I could get the V1.3 to be read by the computer but I couldn't get the E3 DIP to connect. I had compiled marlin for the E3 DIP so i never got it working and got busy with other things. I now have a use for both boards so I will attempt to do this again. The E3 DIP is a replacement for my Monoprice Select Mini V1. Once it is up and running i will attempt to figure out how to load marlin onto the original board and use this for something else.

I have a quality 4GB card I just formatted and put a volume label of REARM on it (FAT32, Default allocation size)

I also bought an MKS TFT35 touchscreen to use for now and have a BTT TFT35 V2.0 for the SKR V1.3. From what I understand these have their own firmware/OS i have to install? I think i have the configuration good to test but I can't seem to get a display set up.

One big problem is the instructions say to connect the screen from aAUX1 to AUX1 which is fine for the V1.3 but the E3 DIP doesnt have an AUX1. Does this mean i can't use the E3 DIP with this screen?

Thank you for your help
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