My Hictop 3DP11 Prusa i3 Clone moves the exactly the same. I understand you are referring the the Nozzle moving left and the bed moving to the rear.
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Re: How can I calculate the actual pritable area and set it in Marlin 2 ??
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Re: How can I calculate the actual pritable area and set it in Marlin 2 ??
Yes, that is how it is. Where do I make changes in marlin2 to center the print area and to set the auto bed leveling positions?
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Re: How can I calculate the actual pritable area and set it in Marlin 2 ??
OK. If the bed is moving to the back, it means that after homing the nozzle ends up near the front left of the bed, so that's fine.
Here's how I would adjust the limits:
Here's how I would adjust the limits:
- Take a ruler and measure the bed. Set X_BED_SIZE and Y_BED_SIZE accordingly in your Configuration.h file
- Set X_MIN_POS and Y_MIN_POS to 0,0 - this is just temporary, we'll change them after we've worked out exactly the dimensions.
- Upload the firmware, and using a program such as Pronterface, execute "G28 X0 Y0" to home just X and Y (we don't want to home Z yet).
- It's likely that the nozzle will end up to the left and in front of the bed, but your printer LCD should show X=0, Y=0
- Use the printer's LCD to jog the nozzle until it's just over the front left corner of the bed.
- Take a note of the X and Y coordinates displayed on the LCD. For example, it could say something like X=12, Y=5.
- Make the two values negative and set X_MIN_POS and Y_MIN_POS to these values. In the example above you'd set X_MIN_POS to -12 and Y_MIN_POS to -5
- Upload your firmware again. Execute the "G28 X0 Y0" again and the nozzle should end up in the same place but the LCD should show the coordinates you set as X_MIN_POS and Y_MIN_POS (-12, -5 in the example).
- Execute "G0 X0 Y0" and the nozzle should end up right over the front left corner of the bed.
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Re: Marlin 2.bf - G76 - Probe temp. compensation error
There was a bug in marlin. Issue resolved.
If anyone reads this in the future, just update your Marlin 2.x Bugfix version.
If anyone reads this in the future, just update your Marlin 2.x Bugfix version.
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X/Z axis proximity endstop help
Hi guys,
I’ll explain the situation before my issue. At work we had a ormerod 1 with duet card, this had a proximity sensor for both Z and Y endstop position. It been in a box in bits and I was asked to look at it and get it going (it had been a few years ago I’m told).
Upon printing the first time the filament started to peel off the bed and getting stuck under the nozzle as it zipped back and forth, not wanting anything to be damaged- I yanked the plug from the wall and the board went pop!!
Now to where my issue comes,
I purchased a ramps 1.4 board with mega and started to transfer over all the wiring.
- Y endstop shows triggered and open when using m119 correctly and homes
- Z endstop shows triggered and open when using m119 correctly and homes to set height when probe is already over the bed
- X endstop does not work - as I’m trying to set it up the same as duet board, when moved to extreme left the sensor picks up the little bracket but still thinks this is z.
So, my question is how do I get the proximity to do both axis end stops on the ramps board as it did on the duet? There’s clearly some setting in the config I need to set.
Just to be clear the sensor is working (outputs a signal) just not working for x axis.
I’ll attach/insert pics of duet proximity wiring and the ramps, wired to z min - but need it to also function as x min.
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
Here is my configuration file too
So, the way I should see it working is, ramps homes Y first using the bracket to the side the moves in x amount over the board then z home.
Your help is greatly appreciated
Phil
I’ll explain the situation before my issue. At work we had a ormerod 1 with duet card, this had a proximity sensor for both Z and Y endstop position. It been in a box in bits and I was asked to look at it and get it going (it had been a few years ago I’m told).
Upon printing the first time the filament started to peel off the bed and getting stuck under the nozzle as it zipped back and forth, not wanting anything to be damaged- I yanked the plug from the wall and the board went pop!!
Now to where my issue comes,
I purchased a ramps 1.4 board with mega and started to transfer over all the wiring.
- Y endstop shows triggered and open when using m119 correctly and homes
- Z endstop shows triggered and open when using m119 correctly and homes to set height when probe is already over the bed
- X endstop does not work - as I’m trying to set it up the same as duet board, when moved to extreme left the sensor picks up the little bracket but still thinks this is z.
So, my question is how do I get the proximity to do both axis end stops on the ramps board as it did on the duet? There’s clearly some setting in the config I need to set.
Just to be clear the sensor is working (outputs a signal) just not working for x axis.
I’ll attach/insert pics of duet proximity wiring and the ramps, wired to z min - but need it to also function as x min.
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
Here is my configuration file too
So, the way I should see it working is, ramps homes Y first using the bracket to the side the moves in x amount over the board then z home.
Your help is greatly appreciated
Phil
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PIDTEMP Errors, "DEFAULT_K*" not defined
I'm running Marlin 2.0.x and when compiling I get errors for the PIDTEMP area of the code. It's in Configuration_Store.cpp and lines 2621,2622,2623 it calls out for DEFAULT_Kp and Ki and Kd but says they're not defined. Anyone else run into this and find a solution?
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Re: Use laser with Marlin (Delta 3D printer)
Hello
I'm sorry to ask a slightly stupid question ( i begin) about setting up a laser on a 3D printer
I work with a TEVO TARANTULA PRO whith motherboard MKS GEN L (ATMEGA2560)
in the "configuration.adv.h" there are lines of code that speak of the laser line 2636 (see attached file)
Would anyone be kind enough to help me for modify MARLIN
THANKS
I'm sorry to ask a slightly stupid question ( i begin) about setting up a laser on a 3D printer
I work with a TEVO TARANTULA PRO whith motherboard MKS GEN L (ATMEGA2560)
in the "configuration.adv.h" there are lines of code that speak of the laser line 2636 (see attached file)
Would anyone be kind enough to help me for modify MARLIN
THANKS
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Re: PIDTEMP Errors, "DEFAULT_K*" not defined
Do not understand how you can get "was not declared in this scope" unless you left them undefined in your configuration.h file.
Download your Marlin 2.0.x from here.
I have used the standard shown below with no problems for my Prusa i3 compatible 3D Printer.
Download your Marlin 2.0.x from here.
I have used the standard shown below with no problems for my Prusa i3 compatible 3D Printer.
// Ultimaker #define DEFAULT_Kp 22.2 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.08 #define DEFAULT_Kd 114
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Re: PIDTEMP Errors, "DEFAULT_K*" not defined
The previous version I used had an option for the Ender 3, this one did not. I'll have to just copy that info over and see if it helps.
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Re: PIDTEMP Errors, "DEFAULT_K*" not defined
...and that was a problem.
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Re: PIDTEMP Errors, "DEFAULT_K*" not defined
Quote
red913
...and that was a problem.
???
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Marlin PID Autotune
I've been using Marlin 1.1.8 for quite a while, after 'converting' the original firmware supplied with my printer to the 'official' Marlin, and it's been working great. I tried upgrading to 1.1.9 but I had a lot of issues with it failing to go to XY home after a print and halting the controller, which went away when I reverted back to 1.1.8 - been totally solid on 1.1.8.
That being said, I decided to give 2.0 a try. I've got PID control configured for my hot ends and my bed, and I enabled 'PID_AUTOTUNE_MENU' in the firmware, but what I find odd is that when I go into the menu, only the first extruder is available as an option... When you have PID control enabled for the hotends and bed, you'd think that E0, E1 and BED would be options in the 'Autotune' menu, but they aren't.
Is this a bug? Did I miss something? Does anyone have any thoughts?
That being said, I decided to give 2.0 a try. I've got PID control configured for my hot ends and my bed, and I enabled 'PID_AUTOTUNE_MENU' in the firmware, but what I find odd is that when I go into the menu, only the first extruder is available as an option... When you have PID control enabled for the hotends and bed, you'd think that E0, E1 and BED would be options in the 'Autotune' menu, but they aren't.
Is this a bug? Did I miss something? Does anyone have any thoughts?
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Re: Marlin PID Autotune
I never use the menu.
I just use the console option and send the gcode command manually to pid tune the parts.
Console option is available when you connect to the printer via software like repetier host or repetier server. I am only familiar with repetier so I am not sure what other options are out there.
I just use the console option and send the gcode command manually to pid tune the parts.
Console option is available when you connect to the printer via software like repetier host or repetier server. I am only familiar with repetier so I am not sure what other options are out there.
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Send nozzle to center of print bed ?
After doing a homing procedure is the anyway to send the nozzle to park in the center of the printbed ? I used pronterface to do this but is there any way to configure Marlin to do this without pronterface ?
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Re: Send nozzle to center of print bed ?
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Re: Send nozzle to center of print bed ?
Thank you, can I do the same after auto bed leveling ?
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Regular Pimples on the printing Surface
Hello Guys,
I have some Problems with regular pimpels on my surface as you can see on the picture. G-Code is also enclosed
[attachment 114677 WhatsAppImage2020-02-29at12.56.13.jpeg]
Hard/Software:
- Marlin V1.1.8
- Rambo 1.1
- Repetierserver
- Raspberry
- Simplify
What I have already tried/learned:
- The pimpels are always on exactly the same position
- It seams that the printhead is slowing down before the pimple. I can see and hear it a little bit
- It just happens at a circle and not on straight lines
- I tried it on 2 simular and one different printer Hardware. All the same
- It has nothing todo with the Infill, I also have the Problem, when I Print just 1 Perimeter and no infill
- Speed has no effect on the position of the pimple, just on the look. Tested 50%, 100%, 200%
- Jerk Standard: M205 X10 Y10, tested: X5;Y5, X30;Y30, X60;Y60 no difference
- Extrusion Amount has no effect. Tested 80% 90 % 100% 120%
- Material has no effect. Tested with ABS and Ultem
- One idea was that the firmware doesnt get the G-Code fast enough. So I took my laptop and printed over "good old pronterface". Nothing changed
So at the moment I have no more idea what to test to get closer to the root of the problem. I would be happy if you can give me some hints!
best regards from austria
Markus
I have some Problems with regular pimpels on my surface as you can see on the picture. G-Code is also enclosed
[attachment 114677 WhatsAppImage2020-02-29at12.56.13.jpeg]
Hard/Software:
- Marlin V1.1.8
- Rambo 1.1
- Repetierserver
- Raspberry
- Simplify
What I have already tried/learned:
- The pimpels are always on exactly the same position
- It seams that the printhead is slowing down before the pimple. I can see and hear it a little bit
- It just happens at a circle and not on straight lines
- I tried it on 2 simular and one different printer Hardware. All the same
- It has nothing todo with the Infill, I also have the Problem, when I Print just 1 Perimeter and no infill
- Speed has no effect on the position of the pimple, just on the look. Tested 50%, 100%, 200%
- Jerk Standard: M205 X10 Y10, tested: X5;Y5, X30;Y30, X60;Y60 no difference
- Extrusion Amount has no effect. Tested 80% 90 % 100% 120%
- Material has no effect. Tested with ABS and Ultem
- One idea was that the firmware doesnt get the G-Code fast enough. So I took my laptop and printed over "good old pronterface". Nothing changed
So at the moment I have no more idea what to test to get closer to the root of the problem. I would be happy if you can give me some hints!
best regards from austria
Markus
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Setting temps beyond the thermistor table.
I haven't used Marlin in ages, and never had cause to push high temps when I did, but the question came up recently..
How does Marlin handle it when an operator sets the nozzle temperature higher than where the thermistor table ends?
I've seen people claiming to be running up to 325C with a glass bead stock from China printer, but when I looked into it, the thermistor tables I opened (2.0 bugfix) topped out at 300C with only the 1 Ohm/719C reading being higher.
Where is the 325C reading on the screen coming from?
Is Marlin extrapolating?
Is Marlin setting to the 300C and just reporting 325C?
Perhaps I wasn't looking at the right tables, but still would like to know how Marlin would handle this scenario.
Thanks all!
How does Marlin handle it when an operator sets the nozzle temperature higher than where the thermistor table ends?
I've seen people claiming to be running up to 325C with a glass bead stock from China printer, but when I looked into it, the thermistor tables I opened (2.0 bugfix) topped out at 300C with only the 1 Ohm/719C reading being higher.
Where is the 325C reading on the screen coming from?
Is Marlin extrapolating?
Is Marlin setting to the 300C and just reporting 325C?
Perhaps I wasn't looking at the right tables, but still would like to know how Marlin would handle this scenario.
Thanks all!
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Re: Setting temps beyond the thermistor table.
Thermistors can't do high temp.
High temperature is done with thermocouples and maths not tables.
High temperature is done with thermocouples and maths not tables.
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Re: Setting temps beyond the thermistor table.
... was using PT100 both, for sensing, and as small heaters with upt to 600deg -- but then I had to change the maxtemp-values too ...
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